THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Folc

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Folc Restaurant Review:

Folc retains some of the cheeky chic of this strip center space’s most memorable tenant to date, Ciao Lavanderia. But it challenges guests with a menu that's divided into categories labeled "Fowl," "Sea," "Land" and "Earth." Within each, the only way one knows what's considered a starter or a main dish is by price. Initial flashes of conceptual smartness, once stymied by execution and presentation, have seen improvement. A ricotta toast with peas is now skinnied-up for easier eating; the addicting fried sweetbreads with coffee mayo freed from a staging straitjacket. An appetizer portion of marinated hamachi with micro herbs and a fan of Asian pear comes both handsomely plated and deftly seasoned. Pork schnitzel with capers and boiled egg may even suggest the pendulum can swing back too far, but then a duck rubbed with pastrami spices and arriving on a “pumpernickel” schmear appears. We’re not sure about the audience for a $65 dry-aged strip steak with bone marrow but are willing to play along for now. In the meantime, more wines, please.