THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Gallia

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Gallia Restaurant Review:

SoWa is the geographically dependent name---South of Washington Street---given to a section of the suddenly-chic South End which is very much on the rise, thanks to its assemblage of converted factory-apartments, church steeples, ethnic flair, and art galleries. Gallia is the latest to join a nascent food scene that seems to have one of everything, from a bakery to a lounge. It’s a chef-owned place with lots of youthful verve and the missteps that come along with that---just fine for a place that is all about the future perfect. Stefano Zimei is the man behind the scenes, a former Federalist chef, and he turns out pan-Mediterranean cooking which does best when it toes traditional lines with bright-flavored spunk. Think earthen chickpea purée and kale alongside Colorado leg of lamb, green pea risotto with tapenade, and coriander-crusted soft shell crab with a lemony salad that includes watermelon. Fellow diners are South End faithful in their urbane ease.