THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED The Globe

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED The Globe Restaurant Review:

Founding owner Govantez Lowndes is easing himself on down the road even as founding executive chef Joshua Laban Perkins takes a firmer grip on the kitchen. The sleek, modern space casts a favorable eye on the adjacent street in this hip technological zone. The energetic atmosphere makes it tough to hear at one's table, but the outdoor tables in good weather insulate patrons from the racket. Placate a lighter appetite with choices from the small plates offerings, available until 2 a.m. some nights. We like the duck bresaola and fig jam tartines with a properly chilled glass of Miguel Torres' Santa Digna Rosado. Crispy calamari are tender, especially good dipped into the sweet chili-lime sauce, now a well-regarded signature item. Salads that once sported too much dressing now seem much lighter. The pappardelle with braised short ribs are a fine tangle of the familiar and the exotic, with Swiss chard providing a substantial basis for the dish’s appeal. The roast chicken comes with silky mashed potatoes and a roasted garlic sauce, and in a portion that's plenty for two. For dessert, go for the Ligurian olive oil cake with fresh figs. While there are plenty of interesting wines on the by-the-glass list, it would be fun to share any of the well-priced and well-selected wines by the bottle with friends.