The Grey

The Grey Restaurant Review:

Transitioning a 1938 Greyhound bus station into a smart, contemporary dining establishment was the work of New York City-based Parts and Labor Design. Leaving her stint with Gabrielle Hamilton at Prune in NYC, Savannah-reared chef Mashama Bailey teamed up with native New Yorker John Morisano, an entrepreneur, who fell in love with the city and now has his first restaurant in Savannah. Start with pristine fresh oysters or choose pickled oysters, an often-overlooked coastal classic. These come with lardo, serrano peppers and cracklin's. Try anything made with shrimp, locally procured and cooked just until done. We like the Country Pasta, al dente and dressed with pork belly, black pepper and Parmesan. Pork shank, with greens and cornbread, is Southern, but not far from Italian "stinco di maiale" either. Chef Bailey has resurrected Country Captain, which accompanies chicken that’s roasted instead of being cooked in the curry-influenced tomato sauce. Desserts may include sweet potato pie (what’s more Southern?) or chocolate parfait. Lunch proposes some intriguing dishes, such as rabbit mortadella with pistachios. Ask about the monthly Sunday supper fixed-price menu and Saturday "lunch in the yard" (weather permitting) outdoors. Christian Depken, owner of Le Chai, a top Savannah wine store on the edge of Forsyth Park, assembled The Grey's old-world wine list; Depken was the wine manager at Cafe Metropole, which occupied this address prior to The Grey. It's one of the smartest collections we've seen anywhere.