THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Incanto

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Incanto Restaurant Review:

One rich risotto ably introduces Incanto: stringy calf's brains, blood sausage and chicken thigh bits clinging to rice dusted brown with fragrant cinnamon. A fundamental food group in "la cucina povera," offal may go by the name "nasty bits," but nothing grungy---or for that matter particularly humble---surfaces in Chris Cosentino's luxurious, subtle preparations. The risotto starts off soothing and wholesome, tasting like the very best chicken soup, then the cinnamon swoops in, lending a haunting, elevating bitterness. Cosentino harnesses top-quality ingredients and draws out deep, resonant and unconventional flavors. Pink, marrow-logged canoes of bone pair with parsley and Sardinian cured tuna, a clever variation on vitello tonnato. Mackerel---often as under-appreciated as offal---arrives soft and sweet, served with pickled chilies, potatoes and arugula---a little spicy but far from fishy. Wood floors and walls hung with oversize photographs of produce give the place a comfortably sleek look. With Edward Ruiz's exclusively Italian wine program and a host of inventive dinners, including four-course "whole beast" events focusing on lamb, suckling pig and baby goat, Incanto remains one of the city's most exciting neighborhood destinations.