THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Jean-Georges Beverly Hills

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Jean-Georges Beverly Hills Restaurant Review:

> EDITOR'S NOTE: THE RESTAURANT CLOSED IN MAY 2023. IT IS NOW ESPELETTE WITH A MENU BY CHEF STEVE BENJAMIN.

> Read more about Jean-Georges Beverly Hills and see a photo gallery by Sophie Gayot. Click here.

> Text below is in memory of André Gayot.

About chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten: It’s not grandiloquent to state that the entry of Jean-Georges (Vongerichten, to be complete --- this Teutonic-sounding name hails indeed from Alsace) on the Los Angeles scene is a landmark in the history of American gastronomy. I have had the luck to be able to observe, modestly but attentively, LA’s period starting with the days of Wolfgang Puck at Patrick Terrail’s Ma Maison. I also witnessed Jean-Georges’ debut in America in 1986 with the opening of Lafayette at the Drake Hotel in New York City. He oversaw this restaurant under the auspices of his mentor, Louis Outhier, one of the fathers of the Nouvelle Cuisine that we, GaultMillau/Gayot, supported and promoted in France. Obviously, the young man showed an inventive talent on top of a mastery of the classic French cuisine. Pardon me for stamping these words with a personal touch since I have known the actors for 40-plus years.

Long story short, Jean-Georges discretely introduced Asian scents in the French tradition, orienting the contemporary cuisine in a global direction that seduced the entire planet at once. After establishing restaurants in the Eastern U.S., Asia and Europe, Jean-Georges is finally facing the demanding and diversified Angelenos. Based on his immense worldwide experience, his successes and failures, he has churned out for them “a Best of Jean-Georges,” selecting and picking from his huge outfit of recipes and savoir-faire what he considers as universal hits. He has chosen not to simply impress with haute fine dining --- pizzas are present on the menu, albeit embellished with black truffles --- but to present an understandable, simplified though elegant, savory cuisine concocted as much as possible with rich local resources such as Santa Barbara sea urchin, vegetables and fruits. Jean-Georges accomplishes this with the help of executive chef Steve Benjamin (from L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon in Las Vegas).

About the restaurant: In the sumptuously majestic Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills hotel, the famous decorator Pierre-Yves Rochon has conceived of a cathedral for the coronation of Jean-Georges the First in the coveted realm of California. The impressive high nave, calling for respect and reverence, is an invitation to serenity that will help you to focus on the pleasure of the meal awaiting you. Some may find it a tad austere but for them an adjacent terrace offers a more casual ambiance.

About the food: The finesse of Jean-Georges shows with the first bites of the appetizers that will rotate each day. Sacramento caviar on lemon jelly and a touch of crème fraîche exemplifies refinement, as does the Santa Barbara sea urchin and salted butter on black bread crostini. Raw ahi tuna, sliced like noodles, arrives atop a bed of avocados in a ginger and radish dressing.

From Jean-Georges’ vast repertoire stems his best-selling sesame crusted salmon. It is cooked on one side --- the cooking time could be a tad reduced to our taste --- and served on a bed of spinach with a passion fruit sauce combining harmoniously sweet and acidity. Caramelized beef tenderloin, which is grilled rapidly at high temperature over three different woods, melts in the mouth. The technique preserves the pith and the full taste of the meat. The dishes offered will change often, if not daily, and will include vegan preparations, all in the same line of enlightened cuisine and sophistication without ostentation. There’s nothing to scare an experienced palate, but more placid, unadventurous eaters will encounter a refreshing touch of novelty. That’s the precise magic touch of Jean-Georges.

View the dinner on YouTube

View our exclusive video interview with chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten.
View our interview with chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten about his cookbook "home cooking with jean-georges".

Sinless desserts are made in the same spirit: the apricot sorbet, strawberry jam and Italian lime meringue are ethereal around a toasted almond panna cotta. More substantial are the chewy chocolate meringue with a variation of cherries in a maraschino emulsion and the traditional Grand Marnier soufflé.

About the wines: Jean-Georges showcases an array of wines from classic wine regions around the world. Featuring iconic producers, the wine list concentrates on Champagne, Burgundy and Bordeaux. There are also small production wines by the glass. You can enjoy everything from Neyers Chardonnay or Matt Morris Wines Heritage Blend from Napa to Louis Roederer's Cristal and Jean-Georges Proprietary Billecart-Salmon from Champagne. As to be expected, service is highly professional.

Deploying the array of his longtime world expertise, Jean-Georges can most certainly keep the promise made from his chair at the Waldorf Cathedral (built and run by entrepreneur Beny Alagem) to add and enhance the image of a tasty Los Angeles by delivering serenity, class, talent and, without fanfare, a cuisine coined with quality and contemporaneity.