THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Joe Allen

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Joe Allen Restaurant Review:

Some may have thought Joe Allen (of Paris, London and New York fame) had lost his touch when in 1998 he opened a branch of his contemporary American bistro in a reclaimed warehouse district of South Beach---hardly anything else was around. He not only managed to attract a robust local crowd through word-of-mouth, but nowadays there are studios, clubs and a huge Publix supermarket in what has become a thriving neighborhood. Joe Allen hasn't changed a whit, the room still tastefully low-key, dimly lit and minimalist---clever fans and lighting fixtures are the sole aesthetic adornments. The food isn't fussy either, though the lengthy, reasonably priced menu meanders from tortillas to pizzas to pastas to stews. Smart choices would be the basic comforts like meatloaf or sautéed calf's liver, both served with mashed potatoes and a mound of spinach, or the big, juicy burger with crisp fries. Desserts such as strawberry shortcake, and Rice Krispies treats with vanilla ice cream and butterscotch sauce, satisfy in a big American way---which is, basically, what Joe Allen does best.