: Joseph Leonard follows the same theme as Gabriel Stulman’s previous two ventures, The Little Owl and Market Table. This time, he’s flying on his own, with an American and Americana-inspired spot that’s named after his maternal and paternal grandfathers. The cozy space feels like a long-lost restaurant from another era, with a wooden ceiling, rough-hewn wooden floor boards and walls bedecked with everything from a vintage exit sign to portraits of the aforementioned grandparents. The menu covers all three meals. Breakfasts boast regional faves like cheese biscuits with scrapple and Anson Mills grits with cheddar. Lunch and dinner are a bit more out there; the steak tartare is paired with onion rings of all things (and it works) while soft shell crabs are doused with Old Bay seasoning and paired with sweet corn, avocado and heirloom tomatoes. Missteps, surprisingly, are the dishes that don’t go far enough, like the bland steak Rossini and the tepid Arctic char with waxed beans. Brunch features a selection of Bloody Marys, oysters, and even a pastrami sandwich if that’s your preferred method for morning-after recovery.

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Joseph Leonard

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