Jue Lan Club

Jue Lan Club Restaurant Review:

A centuries-old Gothic Revival brownstone that has been repurposed several times --- it was originally home to the Episcopal Church of the Holy Communion and in the 1980s was transformed into the Limelight nightclub before becoming the Limelight Marketplace --- is now a chic Chinese restaurant created by Stratis Morfogen, founder of the Philippe Chow group of restaurants. Situated in what was the rectory of the former church, the interior is characterized by brick walls, plush green velvet banquettes, dimly lit lanterns, wrought metal fixtures and Keith Haring artwork and has a romantic and subtly vintage feel. Jue Lan Club has a former Buddakan chef at the helm and a menu that demonstrates pan-Asian influences and emphasizes locally sourced ingredients when possible. Braised oxtail buns (a twist on the usual lamb and beef varieties) are tender and juicy, and translucent bone marrow and prawn dumplings arguably cannot be found on a dim sum menu elsewhere; both small plates make for good shareable starters. Chow fun (sautéed flat rice noodles with mushrooms) is pleasantly pungent and savory, while a crispy-skinned Peking duck served with supple wraps and julienned cucumbers and scallions is first-rate. Dragon fruit-filled cheesecake paired with raspberry sorbet has just the right balance of creamy and citrus flavors to top off the meal on a not-too-sweet note. A selection of sakés, baijiu (traditional Chinese wine) and a global wine list as well as inventive cocktails keep the bar busy.