Le Gabriel

Le Gabriel Restaurant Review:

In 1986, Pierre Cardin designed and built a posh boutique hotel comprising 49 rooms on the premises of his mansion in this coveted section of Paris near the Champs-Elysées. Remodeled in the spirit of the 19th century and rechristened La Réserve Hotel and Spa Paris, it now hosts Le Gabriel, a small, upscale restaurant that seats around 40 guests in a brown and black décor. It is cozy but a tad dark. Executive chef Jérome Banctel, formerly of the Senderens team, has rightly chosen to offer a short menu specifying that all the preparations are made in-house with recognized products to guarantee the sincerity of the content of the plates. As an amuse-bouche, a tender raw chunk of salmon melts in the mouth, opening the way to a salad of blue lobster or langoustines and pomelos in a lobster sauce. Carpaccio of scallops on a bed of new potatoes is topped with "caviar of the field" --- actually, Tombori grains from Japan --- not the real McCoy, of course, but they mimic it rather well. For the "Farm Egg," the white has been whipped and the yellow cooked at a low temperature, with the result married with truffle slices. Then comes the "entreplat" (a transition between appetizers and entrées) consisting of a "champignon crème," a large mushroom sprinkled with sesame grains, to prepare the palate for the core of the meal. That can be a squab of Racan (a small village in the Loire Valley area) with organic buckwheat crêpes. A four-day cocoa marinade makes it as tender as can be and reveals a very original and seductive taste. The filleted sole comes with a black sesame crème and celeriac coulis while asparagus tempura and red pepper ravioli sustain the generous milk-fed veal rib for two. Whether meat or fish, the products in their freshness and quality uphold the promises of the menu, allowing Jérôme Banctel to fully display his seasoned savoir-faire. The "trou normand," a light lemon and green tea sherbet, separates the main courses from the desserts. Particularly special are the Corsican clementines with "Japanese pearls" (tapioca) in coconut milk, as well as the poached pear in hibiscus and lemon. The fruits are prepared by Nicolas Patciello in the Gastrovac, a device that creates a low-pressure, oxygen-free atmosphere. This process sublimates the flavors without having to add a lot of sugar. There's also a traditional soufflé and a baba in a white rum emulsion and a citrus sherbet. Service is on point. In addition to owning La Réserve, entrepreneur Michel Reybier is also in possession of prized vineyards including Cos d'Estournel in France and Tokaj Hétszölö in Hungary. Naturally, they can be found on the superb wine list. Start off with a glass of Michel Reybier Champagne, or a cocktail from the bar next door, if you prefer.