Leña

Leña Restaurant Review:

Emphasizing Latin and South American small plates, this hip bar and restaurant in Baker dispenses bold-flavored tacos, empanadas and ceviches, along with wood-fired meats, vegetables and seafood in an energized bi-level space outfitted with weathered brick walls, wood floors and big windows that overlook the hustle and bustle of Broadway. The tacos, served on house-made corn tortillas, extol the virtues of sweetbreads, bison short ribs and sea bass, while the empanadas feature crisp crescents of dough enveloping pork and chicken, spinach and raisins, potatoes and eggs. We like the octopus ceviche, tart with tomatillos and specked with red onions and jalapeños, and we're equally enamored with the chilaquiles ample with ropes of roasted chicken and topped with grilled tomatillo salsa. While desserts aren't Leña's strong suit (the citrus brown butter cake with blueberries and plantains is the exception), the cocktail scroll is terrific, and the large tequila and mezcal selection, in particular, showcases the beauty of the agave plant.