Les Jardins de l'Espadon

Les Jardins de l'Espadon Restaurant Review:

About the restaurant & chef: Following four years of complete refurbishment, the Ritz Paris welcomes diners in two distinct restaurants: La Table de l’Espadon for dinner and Les Jardins de l’Espadon for lunch. The latter allows guests to discover the cuisine of chef Nicolas Sale (Kintessence, La Table du Kilimandjaro in Courchevel) at more affordable prices. Set menus are proposed for €95, €120 and €145.

The décor: The setting is both uncluttered and posh, in green and beige shades. Meals take place in the courtyard, under an iron-clad canopy, to the soothing sound of a fountain runoff.

Likes: The quietness of the place; the faultless service; the veal cheek blanquette.
Dislikes: Apart from the stiff prices, nothing really.

Food & Drinks: As to the fare, the chef has a knack for modernizing traditional recipes with ideal seasonings and a fine balance of textures and ingredients. He knows how to neatly showcase great products without overloading them with too many flavors. Sea bass carpaccio is enhanced with kiwi morsels and jelly and radish slivers. Regarding the veal cheek blanquette, it would be difficult to taste a better one than what is offered here. The meat is cooked to almost melting in the mouth, and drenched in a yellow wine emulsion with stewed vegetables. Desserts from pastry chef François Perret (Shangri-La Hotel, Paris) are on par with these courses. His chocolate creation combines various elements, like meringue and cream, to delight the palate. Exceptional wine list, as is de rigueur in such a ritzy place, and about 20 items available by the glass, notably a Roero Nebbiolo Matteo Correggia 2012 for €18. The professionally trained staff caters to customers with diligence and tact.