THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED The Lighthouse at Olmos Park

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED The Lighthouse at Olmos Park Restaurant Review:

The presence of a religious gift shop at the entry to The Lighthouse might reassure some diners and discomfit others. Perhaps the best approach is to seek virtue in the food first. We’re all for giving in to the sinfully seductive meatloaf, for example. The restaurant’s chef does a wicked one that many mothers (and not just a few fathers) would sell their souls to serve. The altogether ecumenical menu also offers a credible chicken lettuce wrap and tuna and snappy mango spring rolls with a ginger sauce. On the entrée side, braised short ribs with pappardelle fall just short of inducing rapture, and the sautéed snapper with fennel Gruyère gratin keeps the faith on more than just Fridays. Breakfast is served all day in this (almost too-) bright and airy environment, and the strata “baked egg pudding” with sun-dried tomato might actually be appropriate at whatever time. Though there is a tempting-looking bakery visible to the street, desserts don’t inspire the same measure of devotion; they’re dutiful rather than divine.