Little Italy Restaurant Little Italy Restaurant

Little Italy Restaurant

820 Afterglow St. (West Ave.)
San Antonio, TX 78216
Cuisine: Italian
The ultimate all-American-Italian restaurant: few faults, fewer surprises.
Openings: Lunch & Dinner Mon.-Sat.


Little Italy Restaurant, San Antonio, TX

Little Italy Restaurant Restaurant Review:

Little Italy’s many partisans are probably just as happy that the menu seems stuck in time, the décor equally emblematic of old-school Italian-American. On the occasion that there’s a surprise, it’s a modest one, eggplant rollatini being a case in point. It’s stuffed with prosciutto and cheese and bathed in a sherry-scented tomato sauce with a sweetness that at first seems strange. But eventually we’re lulled into appreciating its anachronistic charms. The minestrone soup has old-fashioned appeal, too. Pastas are generally predictable, though we do like a linguine with fresh clams; the pasta needed generous shakes of red pepper flakes to come to life, but that’s why the shaker is on the table. A touch more assertive on its own is the meat and tomato sauce adorning the gnocchi a la romana. And we admit to being a sucker for dishes such as baked ziti. Squid stars in a more-than-serviceable marinated salad; acceptable variations include octopus and shrimp. Remarkably, tiramisu, so often disappointing, is both moist and full of flavor.

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