THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Maison Novelli
Cuisine:
French
Openings: Lunch Mon.-Fri., Dinner Mon.-Sat.
Features
- Dress code: Casual
- Outdoor dining
- Reservations suggested
THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Maison Novelli Restaurant Review:
Jean-Christophe Novelli is behind the stove and actually cooking in his restaurant. Hes back from his wanderings around the world, and we are assured that he intends to stay there. This is very good news for diners in the Clerkenwell area. Jean-Christophe is not only the Adonis of the restaurant world, hes also a very good cook, and his restaurant has rather suffered in his absence. His cooking seems to have grown up in his travels. There are less silly pretentions, less confusion on the plate and less of the ubiquitous truffle oil than there has been previously. Instead, he is using good ingredients and letting them speak for themselves, with one or two flights of fancy which seem to hang together better than they did of late. Ham hock is served with a marinated leek and a gribiche sauce; a haricot blanc velouté is garnished with grilled scallops; turbot is poached in anise-flavoured broth and served with hollandaise. Customers are looking happy and well fed.
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