: L.A. restaurateur Jesse Gomez and partner/executive chef Jose Acevedo expanded their Mexi-Cali dining empire (Yxta, Mercado) with Maradentro. Located on the ground floor of a contemporary residential building on the busy corner of Wilshire and Barrington, the space has a fresh, nautical-inspired aesthetic with floor-to-ceiling glass walls, light wood accents, teal-colored seats with brushed steel frames and a long bar area covered in gorgeous azul macaubas quartzite, a natural blue granite with organic wave-like patterns. The outdoor patio feels as though you could be inside a boat ... if it weren't for the traffic on the other side of the glass panels. Chef Acevedo's menu is an homage to classic Mexican seafood dishes (mariscos) with a modern twist. For starters, guacamole comes standard with lobster and Nueske’s bacon. Hard-shell sautéed shrimp tacos are fried and sealed, offering an unexpected rendition of the traditional soft-shell tacos de camarones. Entrées such as the salmon enchiladas take the usual poultry or beef experience to coastal territory while the pescado del dia (fish of the day) allows Acevedo's skills to shine with simple but flavorful preparations punctuated by market-fresh vegetables. Cocktails are served aplenty and the lunch menu appeals to the afternoon workforce with options ranging from a piled-high burger alongside the seafood offerings. Naturally, the flan is a strong finish with its custardy-caramel decadence. Service is friendly and while the vibe leans upscale (you are in Brentwood, after all), Maradentro is friendly, laidback and approachable.

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