: Back when restaurateur Dennis Max opened this casual California-concept grill in 1991, South Florida's cuisine scene was still mired in stuffy resort food. While the place is no longer ground-breaking, that's more because Max has influenced so many other area restaurants than because this place has stood still. The popular retro/modern comfort food classics like bacon-wrapped meatloaf (with Cabernet mushroom gravy plus sage smashed potatoes and garlic spinach) remain, and there are numerous 1990s Pacific Rim-inspired fusion items, including Asian-marinated salmon Rangoon spring rolls with soy/mustard dip and a cold noodle side. But chef Patrick Broadhead keeps up with South Florida's newer interests in artisan and local ingredients, too, in dishes such as a succulent "heritage" meatball made from Berkshire pork and Florida beef. Breakfast features witty dishes like a Max's eggs Benedict (which substitutes Taylor pork roll for Canadian bacon), plus corned beef hash made with house-brined beef. For dessert, a trio of seasonal fruit sorbets, presented in a praline basket garnished with fruit and whipped cream, is unusual and elegant. A nicely-priced wine list, featuring an especially extensive selection of Pinot Noirs, adds to the fun.

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