Adding colors to the 12th arrondissement | Mazali, Paris, France
Paris, November 2022
• GAYOT’s Rating: 14/20
• Cuisine: French / Contemporary
• Open: Lunch Wed.-Sat. 12 p.m.-2 p.m., Dinner 7:30 p.m.-10 p.m.
Partners in both life and the restaurant, this is the first baby of chef Matthieu Révol and Claire Nicot, a former journalist with a passion for the culinary world — though at the time I went, Claire was soon to bring a girl to life.
Their intimate and sleek Paris bistro, Mazali, meaning “delicious” in ouzbek, is appropriately named. Inside it seats twenty-six diners who choose dishes from the circulating black board. Since the menu is short, seasonal and market-driven, the pair presents half dishes for the entrées at half price in order for guests to enjoy more delicacies during one evening. So, instead of having one course, you can indulge in two. This is what I did.
Révol worked at a few prestigious maisons and in Thailand for a year before opening Mazali in February 2022. It shows in his creations. In each of them, there are many ingredients all interacting well together, balanced, high in colors and artfully presented, with the help of pastry chef Lindsay Dambert in a tiny open kitchen.
Révol is not at the top of his game (understand he has unleashed potential), but his bistromique fare is so well executed, we might want him to stay at this level. A dilemma, remembering that this type of cuisine is so much more approachable to many than fine dining… In any case, I can say “Bravo!” to the vibrant dinner I had.