Jinpachi Menu

Jinpachi Restaurant Review:

Sushi chef Hirotaka “Taka” Fujita is accustomed to creating delicate morsels from expensive fish at high-end sushi bars like Takao. Now he has a place of his own, named after his grandfather, who operated a sushi bar back in Japan. The vintage craftsman storefront is spare and intimate, with no more than a dozen seats at a cherry wood bar, while a second level up an elegant staircase accommodates overflow or private affairs. Fujita is one of the most talented young sushi chefs in town, and he is very selective in the quality of ingredients he sends over the counter. He uses freshly-grated wasabi, brushes his sushi with house-made soy sauce, and layers oysters on the half-shell with the finest uni he can find, combining two pleasantly briny tastes. Conch --- with no parts spared --- is surprisingly tender and beautifully presented in the shell, while matsutake mushrooms with shrimp and gingko nuts go into a soulful soup. Toro sashimi almost literally melts on the tongue, and Japanese flounder is topped with chile paste and marinated mushrooms. Rolls are rare, but one combines toro, sea urchin and shrimp tempura. Larger plates include grilled black cod with Saikyo miso, and chicken with ginger sauce. Crème brûlées, chocolate soufflés and other Western desserts are strikingly plated by Fujita’s pastry chef wife, a Spago alum. Our only complaint is that prices at Jinpachi can be quite high, with the cost of an omakase dinner comparable to some of the city’s biggest names in sushi --- but then again, the quality is comparable as well. Lunch is more moderately priced, and an excellent introduction to chef Fujita’s sushi.