Miss Paradis

Miss Paradis Restaurant Review:

On the corner of Mulberry and Prince in the heart of SoHo, Philippe Starck has designed a striking bi-level space where a parking lot once stood. The building’s roof is topped with a massive chrome apple sculpture --- a kind of love letter to New York. Floor-to-ceiling windows flood the restaurant with light and make eating a sort of performance art. There are gigantic fiberglass tree trunks and an Italian custom chandelier, too. Restaurateur Claude Louzon is behind the non-design elements, where the Mediterranean meets California dishes are way more straightforward than the flashy interior. Vegetables and seafood share the spotlight, along with a lineup of smoothies and fresh-pressed juices plus spritzes and infused rosés. The wine list showcases plenty of California bottles, and others from around the world. Some dishes from the kitchen, like blistered sumac-scented shishito peppers, arrived shockingly salty. But others, such as Brussels sprouts made addictive with Parmigiano Reggiano, chili flakes and plenty of garlic, were just right. Roasted dorado was tender and fragrant with lemon-thyme and pearl onions. For dessert, banana chia pudding is topped with chocolate sorbet and a fruits salad served with mint and Sichuan pepper syrup is for those feeling virtuous.