Modern Cafe

Modern Cafe Restaurant Review:

We like this northeast neighborhood gem located in a building that dates back to 1941, and so does the local arts crowd. When owner Jim Grell took it over, he matched its vintage retro look to his menu---and his pot roast (decidedly the best in town) remains renowned among Twin Cities foodies. But we think the pan-roasted chicken always is prepared to a juicy turn and the homemade onion soup served with toast-y warm grilled bread is a good choice for a wintry day. Grell does, however, give a twenty-first century spin to the ever changing menu. Try the spiffed-up basics, like mashed potatoes with garlic and blue cheese, the gnocchi with black olives and mozzarella, and sautéed sea bass with lemon risotto. Desserts like chocolate pudding remain fittingly old-fashioned; they’re about the only thing not quite as delicious as we hope.