Moro

Moro Restaurant Review:

This coming together of Spanish and North African food gastronomically echoes Cordoba's cathedral built inside a great mosque. Tapas at the bar (12.30 to 10.30pm) with a glass of sherry, or at a table while choosing from the short, stimulating menu, are pure Spanish, with pickled chillies, tortilla, white asparagus and piquillo peppers---they are satisfying in themselves or as a prelude to a more substantial meal. On the main menu, which changes weekly to reflect the market and the season, Moorish influence is used to rich effect in such dishes as quail in flatbread with pistachio sauce, or charcoal grilled squid with spicy harissa for starters, and wood-roasted pork with Andalucian patatas alinadas (with eggs, tuna and potatoes as the main constituents), and chicken with butternut squash, chickpeas, tahini sauce and coriander. From the tempting desserts list, Malaga raisin ice cream and chocolate and apricot tart are masterly. The wine list is Spanish with a wide range of sherries. Service is courteous, efficient, but above all, knowledgeable. The only downside is the noise, which can be considerable. Moro has given birth to a sibling, Morito, a tapas bar next door.