Naka Naka

Naka Naka Restaurant Review:

There's no sign outside and curtains cover the windows. But inside, old-world Japan comes vividly to life. The subtly lit interior is tiny yet homey with slate tiles, dark wooden beams that crisscross the ceiling, shoji screens and an elevated stage-like dining area. Kimono-clad staff graciously discuss the menu and the specials, and serve appetizers and entrées in bento boxes. Start with a noodle soup of broiled duck and vegetables before indulging in the fried fish in sweet vinegar dressing. While sushi enthusiasts will enjoy the traditional hand rolls and sashimi offerings, including the signature Naka Naka roll with tuna, salmon, yellowtail, eel and custard egg, the chef also uses native ingredients such as hijiki, lotus root and sesame greens in his daily specials. A $65 prix-fixe dinner offers an assortment of appetizers, soup and salad, a choice of entrée and dessert. Arrive early as seating is limited to nine and reservations are not accepted. Over saké and plum wine, New York seems a world away.