The National

The National Restaurant Review:

Hugh Acheson of Athens’ Five & Ten and his associate, Peter Dale, have a winner on their hands. Mediterranean influences define the menu. Seasonality drives Dale’s menus, so look for chilled soups in summer, including a gazpacho made with local ingredients. The Ashley Farms chicken from Winston-Salem, North Carolina, finds its way into the chicken salad, although we think the herbs in the yogurt dressing cut too powerful a swath against the flavor of the chicken. Locally produced Red Mule polenta, Sea Island red peas and locally grown green beans with a green tomato peach relish accompany a pan-seared pork chop at dinner. Desserts change daily, but if the Portuguese custard tarts are available, move heaven and earth to have some. Brunch can be a languid affair as it continues throughout the day to 4 p.m. The wine list is first-rate, with many unusual choices under $30 a bottle. The by-the-glass selections are inspired, and all ample servings are conducted to the table in good glassware. The beer list is similarly well executed.