THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED New End

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED New End Restaurant Review:

New End is the third in the triumvirate of serious Hampstead restaurants and if critical mass has any value, then finally this wealthy area is prepared to accept and encourage serious dining, something which strangely it has heretofore not done. A slew of admiring reviews within the second week of its opening made bookings red hot, but sensibly the restaurant stuck to its policy of not turning tables. The restaurant itself is pretty, light and airy with a high ceiling and a glass frontage, just the kind of casual décor that will not frighten Hampstead folk. But the point here, of course, is the cooking, which is extremely accomplished. The menu looks like a real foodie’s paradise---with dishes like braised pig’s cheek with garlic and parsley mash, and roast fillets of John Dory with crisp Serrano ham, red wine jus. Such seemingly uncompromising dishes turn out to be sublime examples of how good this chef is. We began with a little amuse-bouche of light beetroot soup with aged vinegar. The goat cheese soufflé (from the four-choice vegetarian menu), was beautifully crisp on the outside with the cheese inside correctly firm; while a foie gras and pigeon terrine with toasted brioche would have passed muster in the most expensive West End restaurant. Roast loin of lamb came perfectly pink, with a ’turnip’ confit, in fact, a julienne of turnip. John Dory came with langoustine on spinach and with salsify. Desserts were as masterly, a bitter chocolate fondant with white chocolate ice cream, the richness cut by a passion fruit sauce, and a poached rhubarb, ginger and lemon grass pannacotta. The wine list is currently small, but being updated and expanded, but the mark ups are very reasonable. Set 2-course lunch £12.50, 3 courses £15, set 3-course dinner £35.