: Two floors of senescent concrete and conduit transform nightly with the warm glow of Edison bulbs high above hard woods and smooth espresso banquettes in this latest offering from chef Jason Fox (Commonwealth) and partner Timothy Felkner (Vigilante Hospitality). Fox delivers characteristically playful bite-size synergies in a menu heavily skewed to shareable plates --- think rich, salt cod croquettes, stone fruit with burrata in nasturtium pesto or savory chicken liver mousse with fig and tea jam. Delicacies include halibut chicharrones with crème fraîche and salmon roe; adventurous diners will find reward in a smoky uni toast with egg and jalapeño. The whole animal charcuterie evolves by the hour, and a blind tasting menu features fare typically reserved for foodie insiders. The salted date ice cream with marshmallow and chocolate granola leads the dessert set. Classic cocktails favor whiskey and gin, and the wine list comfortably connects California with the Old World.

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