THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Paolo's

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Paolo's Restaurant Review:

PAOLO’S IS CURRENTLY CLOSED. Paolo's attracts a twenty-something crowd, but oldsters, too, look handsome against the backdrop of this dramatically lit Cal/Ital palace with its sleek black granite and pink marble décor. An open kitchen adds warmth, along with the wonderful aroma of pizza cooking in the brick oven. There's a sophisticated touch to each dish---mussels come stewed in tomato-lentil-shellfish broth; steak is rubbed with espresso before being grilled and served with a potato onion compote; the veal chop comes with white truffles whipped into its Yukon gold potatoes. Only occasionally does style overrule substance, as in a fettuccine carbonara whose Gorgonzola cheese completely overwhelms its applewood-smoked bacon and delicate sage cream. Such missteps are, however, rare.