THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Pearl & Ash

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Pearl & Ash Restaurant Review:

Is it an Asian restaurant? Is it a small plates place? No one really knows how to define Pearl & Ash, a hot-spot located on the ever-increasingly hot Bowery. And no one really cares --- especially when all the food tastes this good. Chef Richard Kuo, who has logged time in the kitchens at celebrated Corton and wd-50, is the top toque. His menu spans the globe (there are small and larger plates; regardless, portions are small) and he does an admirable job threading spices from distant lands into ingredients from others. Hanger steak, for example, is infused with harissa, giving it a refreshing kick, and the scallops boast an underlying layer of flavor via Ethiopia thanks to East African spices. Grilled octopus is done right --- crispy on the outside and gooey inside --- and complemented by the influence of shiso. There isn’t much in the way of dessert; consider the Fernet-Branca ice cream sandwich. Or just order another bottle of wine from wine director Patrick Cappiello's well-curated list, which includes a large handful at very affordable prices.