Popina

Popina Restaurant Review:

Everything about Popina is understated, graceful and genuine. In fact, much of the restaurant’s energy and ambience reflects the demeanor of the man behind the kitchen, chef Orel Kimchi, who has worked under Joël Robuchon in Paris and Juan Mari Arzak at Arzak in San Sebastian as well as at Jerusalem's renowned Cavalier, and spent a year in New York honing his craft and learning about international cuisines. For a starter, indulge in the shrimp burger that is set between two pillowy steamed buns; the burger, which the chef stirs for exactly eight minutes to allow the protein to form a gel and bind into a textured shrimp patty, is packed with flavor yet light enough to leave room for the other dishes. Many of the main courses reflect Kimchi's cooking philosophy: "tasty and simple, good flavors and combination of cooking methods beginning with Escoffier’s book and ending with the molecular method." Amaretto and pumpkin laced ravioli, topped with foie gras and plated in a gentle pool of almond and truffle foam, exemplifies his blend of rustic and technical approach. On the other hand, braised veal cheek with crispy polenta and tomato coulis reflects a more pastoral French style. For dessert, you might find beer ice cream served with a warm and delicate compote cake. The diverse wine menu includes boutique and large production quality selections from France, Spain, Italy and Israel --- the most notable Israeli wines are the Clos de Gat Chardonnay.