Restaurant ES

Restaurant ES Restaurant Review:

In German, “ES” means “THAT.” The word is frequently used by Freud to suggest what is beyond our control, like pleasure or nature. That said, there’s no need to be a philosopher to dine at Restaurant ES, the new venue of Franco-Japanese chef Takayuki Honjo, formerly of hip Paris restaurant L’Astrance and Noma in Copenhagen, and who contends “working in quest of purity in a minimalist approach.” Thus, amid a monastic non-décor of stone and wood (symbolizing nature, we guess), guests are served refined dishes exquisitely presented, such as egg yolk confit with anchovy; cauliflower sprinkled with a minced roasted brioche; caramelized Jerusalem artichoke coated in a juice of Italian Scamorza cheese; smoked carpaccio of Crimea black tomatoes decorated with chive flowers; and a filet of Spanish pork with a cream of sweet onions and a purée of grilled eggplant. Desserts follow through in finesse with the apple in a caramelized “tuile” or the pineapple and its coconut ice cream. The wine list is strong on Burgundies, because they better express the true nature of the grape. Lunch is at €42 or €55. At dinner, dégustation menu only for €105. It’s amazing: No sign is on the street to say this is Restaurant ES, so thoroughly check the number in the address for your taxi to know where to deliver you.