Restaurant Guy Savoy La Monnaie de Paris Restaurant Guy Savoy

Restaurant Guy Savoy

Monnaie de Paris
11, quai de Conti
75006 Paris
+33 (0)1 43 80 40 61
Cuisine: French / Contemporary
Art meets gastronomy at Restaurant Guy Savoy at the Monnaie de Paris.
Openings: Lunch Tues.-Fri. 12 p.m.-2 p.m.; Dinner Tues.-Sat. 7 p.m.-10:30 p.m.


Restaurant Guy Savoy, Paris, france

Restaurant Guy Savoy Restaurant Review:

About the restaurant: Guy Savoy, the white-bearded Cacique of French contemporary classic cuisine, has reached the ultimate step atop the pyramid of gastronomy. After his many successful and acclaimed ventures from the City of Light to Sin City (aka Las Vegas), he fell in love with l’Hôtel de la Monnaie de Paris --- formerly the Royal Mint, a UNESCO World Heritage Site built in the 18th century --- located on the left bank of the Seine. Gazing out the high and large windows on the second floor, one embraces the spirit of Paris: the architectural beauty shining on the royal palace of the Louvre, the poetry and the liveliness of the river, the literary culture in the green boxes of the bouquinistes (booksellers), and the quest for knowledge at the Institut de France. It is not only the perfect showcase for the refined, artistic cuisine of Guy Savoy, but a source of constant inspiration that shows in the new dishes served in five contiguous salons. Architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte plated the old décor of parquet floors and moldings with new concepts like the lowered, black-mirrored ceilings and dark shades of grey and khaki, which contrast with the sparkling brightness of the white tablecloths, the smiles of the presentation plates, and the tableware especially designed to complement Savoy’s culinary inventions.

About the food: They can be plates decorated in accord with the food served in them, or surprise cups with a double bottom concealing an unexpected supplement to the dish. Raise the cup of the velvety crème of carrot, turnip and celery and find underneath a lobster tartare tart to finish, on a different note, this heavenly amuse-bouche. Tomatoes are to be savored in two steps. You will enjoy a tomato tartare, surrounded by dried tomato skin, set in a tomato gazpacho and topped with seaweed and lemon granité. Then, lift the double bottom plate to discover thin slices of tomatoes in various colors; meanwhile, a delicate feuilleté covered with warm tomato purée arrives at the table. Raw, cooked, cold and warm in a single dish, the versatile tomato presents a range of subtle tastes. Accompanied by an egg filled with sabayon, caviar over a flattened pungent zucchini flower is an exciting, unusual pairing that respects the finesse of each. Watch the tableside preparation of the salmon “frozen” on ice, scalding hot consommé and lemon “pearls.” The fish, which is first marinated in olive oil, sits on a block of Himalayan red salt, then is moved in thick layers over carbonic ice at a temperature of minus 70° Celsius, and sprinkled with lemon, lime and finger lime “pearls.” Finally, it is placed on a very hot plate and sprayed with a hot lemon grass consommé. Slowly cooked three ways (by the salt, the extreme cold and the various degrees of heat), the salmon literally melts in the mouth, exuding its entire flavor. Bass cheeks are roasted, while the filets are steamed, revealing different textures and savors sustained with a jardinière of vegetables and a thin ring of crispy leek. The crispy scales are sprinkled on the fish meat to finish the dish. Savoy explores different aspects of the same product, extracting its core essence. He plays with the palette of the many merits of veal: its chop is roasted, its liver paneed and sweetbreads browned with potatoes perfumed with cherry tree flowers. Other creations include the red mullet ”en situation,” meaning “in his element,” and the slightly spicy “giant” Dublin Bay prawn grilled à la plancha and caught in Savoy’s “net” of a turnip sculpted to look like mesh. Both are conceived to bring the look and feel of the sea. Among all these findings, the imperishable standards of Savoy hold strong: the marvelous artichoke and truffle soup with the brioche layered with mushrooms and truffles; the ice-poached oysters with a purée of oyster, on which is laid a raw oyster coated with oyster juice aspic, garnished with a strip of sorrel, pepper and tiny bits of lemon.

About the desserts: The dessert menu modestly announces a laconic “Strawberry.” Indeed, it’s a traditional French pastry called “Fraisier” that keeps its base composed of a “Génoise” biscuit, but has evolved into a new version. The cream has become a mousseline, and the almond paste has been substituted with fresh caramelized almond. In the same manner, “Rhubarb” summarizes the process of reconstituting a stem with small cubes of rhubarb poached in pepper syrup, its roots plunging in hazelnut dacquoise crumbles mimicking the earth. Products, whether marine or terrestrial, are replicated as close as possible to their element, their "situation." It’s an expression of gratitude toward nature, a thanksgiving celebration. The classic millefeuille is made to order --- and not one minute before, says Savoy, who listens during its making to the music of the duet between the flaky pastry and the cream, the meeting of the dry with the smooth.

About the wine: The wine list --- more like a wine book, the size of one volume of the Encyclopedia Universalis --- contains everything expected from the best French wines, from a € 55 Bordeaux to a € 16,900 Romanée Conti. Herbal teas are made with fresh plants in pots brought to your table. Elegant young men in grey suits provide service as minute as the inspired cuisine of this exceptional restaurant where food meets art. Apart from the majestic architecture of the XVIII century Hôtel de la Monnaie, modern art lovers will re-enter the contemporary world to appreciate the paintings and sculptures of the chef and those lent by business mogul François Pinault (who purchased the Palazzo Grassi in Venice to showcase his art). Don’t miss this unique experience if you can afford it, but be sure to reserve far in advance.

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