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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED The River Restaurant Restaurant Review

: The River Restaurant is indelibly old-fashioned yet with the timeless charm of an elegant ocean liner which glides on safe in the knowledge that age does not wither the frisson of excitement of dining in such splendidly grand surroundings with utterly impeccable, pleasingly unobsequious service. The menu is not high-definition fashion, but interestingly eclectic with nods to matre chef Anton Edelmann's Germanic heritage as well as the necessary luxury ingredients. Domes are still lifted in unison to reveal successful starters such as admirably refined scallop ravioli topped with roasted scallop on a frothy saffron broth, and a macho, richly defined dish of kidneys and sweetbreads with cockcomb and deconstructed vol-au-vent. Roast suckling pig with bread dumplings was wonderfully savoury with particularly good parsnip and swede purée accompaniments. A vegetarian casserole, including brussels sprouts, broad beans, carrots and baby turnips, came with a delectable truffle cream adorned with generous slivers of Périgord black diamond. Only desserts from the trolley were disappointingly mediocre---both apple strudel and almond and pear tart belonged to a second-rate pâtissier. There is a reasonable choice of wines by the glass and a plump wine list not wholly dedicated to French classics with a respectable number of Contemporary producers from further afield. Book well ahead for a privileged view of the Thames and the Millennium wheel. Set 3-course lunch £34; set 3-course dinner Mon.-Thurs. £45.50, Fri.-Sat. £49.50.


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