THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED River Terrace

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED River Terrace Restaurant Review:

River Terrace is difficult to get to, and the décor is blandly corporate. But a table by the huge windows puts you about 20 feet away from Old Man River vastly rolling along between you and Arkansas. It’s the most spectacular vista in Memphis, and at sunset, with the sky fading from blue to gray and the lights flicking on the soaring bridge---it’s heavenly. The food’s not heavenly, but it’s very good and reveals gratifying attention to detail. Mango-tarragon glazed shrimp with onion confit is a good place to start, as is a serving of excellent crawfish cakes with smoked red bell pepper sauce. The chef flexes geographical muscles with such entrées as pork tenderloin marinated in chipotle peppers with a bacon-mango sauce and smoked duck breast with Asian spices and lemongrass (oops, that pear poached in port is out of place). Best is the restaurant’s signature dish, the impossibly rich black sea bass on caramelized bananas, brown butter and coconut milk. Desserts tend toward rich and wholesome tarts and cakes. The wine list is standard for the city but decent.