THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Rumble Fish

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Rumble Fish Restaurant Review:

Rumble Fish is a little work of semi-genius that opened next to The Hi-Tone, one of the city’s premier music clubs. A sparely decorated old storefront, but with a candle and a tiny bowl of water holding one Siamese fighting fish on each table, the restaurant offers cleverly conceived and well-executed variations on contemporary American cuisine. The radish, orange and mint salad is a signature starter, as are the flying fish roe with apple sauce and crème fraîche on Yukon Gold potato chips, and the smoked scallop ceviche with shrimp on wonton crisps. Chef-owner Dave Lorriman works equally well with red meat---an utterly simple but terrific grilled rib-eye, for example, or orange marmalade-marinated and fennel-seed-crusted pork tenderloin with a juniper beurre blanc over creamy polenta---and seafood, as in grilled tuna or the over-easy talapia. The restaurant closes before The Hi-Tone cranks up around 10:30 p.m., so there’s no bleed-over of throbbing basses. Rumble Fish is small, but service can back up on a busy night. The wine list is short but sensible.