THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED San Remo

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED San Remo Restaurant Review:

San Remo's menu may be Italian, but red snapper Vera Cruz and gravlax put in appearances. Accommodation to a wide range of tastes is not a bad idea, and huge servings seem to be another way the restaurant is attempting to win friends and influence people. An order of marinated asparagus with Parmesan turned out to be a giant salad, trumped in size only by the loss-leader San Remo salad worth its weight in goat cheese. But the kitchen can turn out perfectly respectable (and conventional) Italian cuisine as well. Gnocchi are pillowy and perfectly dressed in a sprightly tomato sauce spangled with fresh asparagus, peas and mushrooms. Hearty osso buco is utterly classic and may even offer up some marrow for spreading on bread. And dentice (snapper) alla vodka is emblematic of contemporary Italian cooking---right down to the whisper-light sauce and peeled cherry tomatoes, no less. Desserts may be skipped; real Italians aren't that hung up on them anyway.