Sawyer

Sawyer Restaurant Review:

About the restaurant & décor: The sprawling former home of a whiskey and fried chicken spot now retains only a few choice aspects of rusticity: exposed square beams in the ceiling, and a natural wooden floor. The mismatch of those elements with the sharp edges and modern, dark-turquoise benches for seating seems to reflect the same eclectic culinary viewpoint as the menu.

Likes: Whimsical desserts; warm breads; fun twists on Jewish cuisine.
Dislikes: Distracted service when busy; overwhelmingly large space.

About the food: Hints of chef Mitch Mayers’ background as chef de cuisine at Pacific Northwest staple Lark mix with his Jewish heritage and Seattle experience in options like bone marrow matzoh balls in pho broth or the Dungeness crab roll with lox on an everything-spice bun. Skilled execution makes even the simpler sounding dishes worth ordering, as in the porchetta, served with multi-colored pickles, anchovy rémoulade and chimichurri as well as infinitely fluffy flatbread. Wild boar ribs taste like North Carolina gone dainty, falling off the bone, where they can land on the cornbread muffin and be slathered with mustard barbecue sauce. Meanwhile, the fried potato jo-jos get an instant upgrade from the buttermilk ranch dipping sauce contrasted with sweet pickled peppers.

About the desserts & drinks: Service can get overwhelmed in the sizeable restaurant, but it’s hard to hold a grudge while ordering from the fun-loving dessert menu, which has house-made versions of childhood favorites like choco-tacos, dilly bars and funnel cakes. The small wine list holds about four dozen mostly old-world bottles of intriguing varieties and is supported by an equally interesting and creative cocktail list that includes The Trinity, sporting a house rum blend, lime and simple syrup. Non-alcoholic drinks such as cantaloupe soda are also available.