: The Smokehouse’s previous owner was eulogized by the Texas Senate upon his passing, but the place still retains the late pit master's touch---along with many of his cooks. Sandwiches of brisket, sausage, pork or turkey are a cautious introduction, but the true aficionado will head straight for the lamb---fabulously fatty and found almost nowhere else in town. Pork ribs are singular in their mesquite-smoked goodness, the grainy, house-made sausage soars, and short ribs (weekends only) shine in their crusty cloak. Though you should try it, the fruity barbecue sauce is hardly needed---except perhaps on the turkey breast. Even chicken, often a yawner, is worth contemplating, and all the sides---from slaw to potato salad---are county-fair quality. Desserts were hit-or-miss in the past, but they now appear to be more of a priority, with brownies, sweet potato, pecan and lemon meringue pies, and peach cobbler available. Ease it all down with Southern-style sweet tea.

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