: Busy Smokejack is a slickly designed establishment with a generous bar to the left of the entrance and a large dining room with comfortably spaced tables. Upstairs, a private dining room is a setting to listen to music; the schedule is ever-evolving. Executive chef John Umberger has barbecue figured out. Start with big, thinly sliced pickles fried hot and crisp, served with a mildly spicy mayonnaise "pink sauce" for dipping. We recommend the pulled pork with a proper North Carolina sauce and the ribs --- either baby-backs or spare ribs --- with a dry Memphis-style rub. Kansas City's favorite burnt ends, from the brisket, were a little dry; the sweet, thick barbecue sauce that covers them shouldn't be necessary. Sauces range from Alabama white sauce, good on the smoked bone-in chicken, to South Carolina's mustard-based sauce. Tasty sides include rich, fluffy corn pudding, an unusual choice. Ask for the house-made pepper vinegar to adorn the good, if slightly salty, collard greens. For dessert, the chef makes a variety of treats, such as fresh fruit crisps and cobblers, and of course, banana pudding. Bypass the underwhelming wine list and go with any of the fine beers, like local brew Sweetwater.

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