Sorellina

Sorellina Restaurant Review:

Black and white and hot all over, Sorellina is from Midas-like restaurateur Jamie Mammano of Mistral, Mooo and Teatro. Occupying the ground floor of a wedge-shaped Copley Square condo, this night spot is as striking inside as it is from the outside, at once sleek and posh, bright and comfortable. Likewise, its contemporary Italian menu is simultaneously minimalist and hearty. Preparations are straightforward, almost stark, but they're substantial in every sense of the word. Appetizers are understated --- think sirloin carpaccio with beech mushrooms topped with a light olive oil zabaglione; likewise, burrata is naturally sweetened with a fig marmellata and butternut squash. Entrées are pared down to their essences --- a lovely piece of meat or fish, simply prepared and simply adorned; we especially like the Wagyu beef meatballs, lobster and potato gnocchi and Colorado lamb chops. All taste even better when paired with a glass of wine from the sommelier's reserve selections (which start at $30 a pour). Even desserts, like the bomboloni (sugared donuts) filled with Nutella and topped with vanilla bean anglaise, make delicacy seem synonymous with richness. It's too bad the Old Country peasants who inspired such dishes couldn't have afforded a single bite.