Starfish

Starfish Restaurant Review:

Korean-born Seung Park has given sushi and sashimi a couple of twists at his contemporary Japanese restaurant. Few sushi establishments have as good a wine list as this one, with many fine choices by the glass. But the saké list is even more compelling, and for $11, one may order a four-saké sampler (country saké) that supplies enough saké to accompany at least a pair of rolls, creating a good opportunity to mix and match flavors. The usual nigiri and temaki rolls are offered, but interesting vegetarian rolls --- a veritable raft of them --- also are present. Deep-fried vegetable tempura makes its appearance in a roll, for instance. Regulars, however, turn to the last page, where nearly two columns of special rolls make an impressive lineup. Given crazy film and TV show names, they include a wide range of flavors. "Sin City," for instance, is a tangy-spicy onion with shrimp tempura roll. Deep-fried soft-shell crab shows up in the "Monster-in-Law" roll, with buttery avocado, cucumber and masago.