Terra

Terra Restaurant Review:

About the restaurant: The sheer gastronomic magnitude and high energy of Eataly’s three floors at the Westfield Century City mall can be daunting, and within the range of eateries, from pizzeria counter to café to a fish restaurant from Michael Cimarusti, Terra offers a welcome escape from the bustling food court scene. This upscale wood-burning Italian grill perched on a charming rooftop terrace is the place to go big with steaks and other well-crafted Italian fare for dinner, lunch and brunch.

The décor: The almost secret entrance through Eataly’s second floor takes you up a broad staircase and past tall walls of wine, popping out onto a panoramic rooftop view. A large olive tree, Mediterranean greenery, and romantic string lights frame the airy scene of bar, lounge and restaurant. A fire pit surrounded by comfortable white wicker cushioned seating is an especially inviting spot to sip specialty gin and tonics. There are communal wood tables and private ones; heaters warm the space on colder nights but you can also sit inside the glass doors near the impressive wood grill where the chef action is. Brunch attracts a stylish crowd beneath jaunty market umbrellas.

Likes: Views for miles; gorgeous grilled items; fresh house-made tomato juice mix at the brunch’s bespoke Bloody Mary bar.
Dislikes: High prices.

Food & Drinks: Start things off with savory skewered lamb sausages and Calabrian chili or a standout whole grilled artichoke that’s lovely dipped in a silky egg yolk emulsion. The calamari is quite good. A first-rate choice of grilled vegetables includes flavorful local carrots served with almond pesto, and an asparagus with lemon and sea salt so popular it often sells out. To our surprise a strikingly memorable dish was the coal roasted sweet potato drenched in lemon herb butter and chives – it’s simple yet imbued with a deep, complex, smoky flavor and silky texture. (It is $18, but trust us.) The grill chefs are masterful, whether it’s seared wild tuna, lamb chops with pomegranate reduction, or tender U-10 diver scallops with truffled jus. We recommend the “big things for sharing.” The 30-oz. dry-aged Angus rib-eye is sliced straight off the grill, and arrives juices dripping, nestled against a tangle of charred green onions; it suits a foursome nicely. While the grill steals the show, the pasta’s no slouch, especially a hand-cut pappardelle with Bolognese ragù. Avail yourself of that well-curated wall of wine with so many excellent Italian choices. The bar specializes in craft cocktails incorporating botanicals from the rooftop garden, in particular the aforementioned creative seasonal G+Ts made with boutique gins, fresh fruits, herbs and flowers.