THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Tet

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Tet Restaurant Review:

THIS ESTABLISHMENT IS CLOSED Steven Duong is no stranger to the Vietnamese food scene in New York. The owner of O Mai in Midtown and of the late, lamented Cyclo in the East Village, he’s returned to that neighborhood with Tet. While Cyclo was very much a 1990’s-style Vietnamese restaurant---lots of authentic detailing and simple dishes---Tet reflects a more sophisticated palate. Here, the interior is functionalist chic, with exposed ductwork, recessed colored lighting on the wall and a menu that’s far more adventurous than the typical take-out endeavors you’d find elsewhere on Avenue A. Case in point: headcheese, which is featured prominently, and rather pungently, in a salad with green papaya, lime and Thai basil. The balance of the unctuous headcheese and acid of the papaya and lime is textbook Vietnamese. Tet doesn’t struggle with more traditional dishes either, including a crisp summer roll with shrimp and a heaping portion of roast duck. Once again, though, the innovative dishes exert their pull, especially with the baby-back ribs, grilled with lemon grass, and crispy egg noodles with shiitake and lotus root. Skip the middling desserts in lieu of a refreshing Vietnamese iced coffee.