Tio Pepe

Tio Pepe Restaurant Review:

Just because this West Village restaurant opened on July 4 way back in 1970 doesn’t mean it’s coated in red, white and blue. In fact, Tio Pepe has long had its culinary feet in both Mexico and Spain, serving up slightly better than mediocre enchiladas and tortillas Español. But in 2016, the owners renovated, tossing out all the kitschy rustic décor and adding some sharp edges and more natural light. They also revamped the menu, taking the restaurant’s foot out of Mexico and only focusing on Spain. It was a good idea, but the kitchen fare is only slightly better for it. Skip the flaccid fried calamari for the cigar-shaped ultra-creamy chicken-and-cod croquettes or the flavorful gambas al ajillo (garlic shrimp). Entrées are underwhelming and a better bet is one of the paellas, especially the saffron-laced seafood version. Desserts are on the ho-hum side and the wine list is mostly Spanish and largely affordable with a few options by the glass.