THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Trader Vic's

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Trader Vic's Restaurant Review:

When Trader Vic's, long located in the Palmer House Hilton, closed, tiki enthusiasts (and a new crop of cocktailers) wept. It since found a more sophisticated (but every bit as dimly-lit) home in a residential-office building. The tiki trappings are as plentiful as one might expect: thatched walls, almost-scary masks, bamboo details all set the theme. And the mai tais, well, they're as hangover-inducing as ever. What is surprising, however, is the restaurant's showcase: a wood-burning Chinese oven, which turns out tasty (though sadly not crisp-skinned) chai tea-smoked duck. Pupu platters are happy hour-worthy, loaded with the likes of crab Rangoon and coconut-battered shrimp. For dessert, "rhum" gelato is a creamy dream.