THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Trebol

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Trebol Restaurant Review:

On the far edge of the aggressively trendy Mississippi shopping, dining and entertainment district, Trébol combines old and new sensibilities. The space is rustic and airy, with a warm pumpkin color scheme set off against dark wood. The recipes, based on traditional Oaxacan cooking, benefit from decades of tweaking to discern the right balance of flavorings in moles and other complex sauces. The attitude and surroundings, on the other hand, are as current as it gets with an eco roof, boasts of composting, and a commitment to local, organic produce. Chef Kenny Hill trained under Greg Higgins, considered by many as the Portland father of the sustainable restaurant movement, and Hill adheres to strict seasonal considerations---no midwinter tomatillos or poblano chiles, for example. The menu offers familiar Mexican dishes such as tacos and enchiladas but with surprising twists. One enchilada is stuffed with yams, spinach, onions and queso fresco, and topped with a fried egg. Other unusual dishes include grilled boneless baby quail with smoky peanut mole and braised pork shoulder served with celery root gnocchi and a Black Mission fig compote. A comfortable bar features an enormous range of tequilas---ask the bartender for a special tasting. Margaritas are, of course, de rigueur.