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Gabriel Kreuther

Gabriel Kreuther Restaurant Review:

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About the restaurant and décor: Gabriel Kreuther has a culinary pedigree most chefs would envy (La Caravelle, Jean-Georges, Atelier at The Ritz-Carlton, The Modern). His luxe eponymous restaurant, envisioned by acclaimed designer Glen Coben, is divided into two sections --- an elegant bar and lounge area with an à la carte menu showcasing Kreuther's renowned tartes flambées alongside a pre-theater menu, and the sophisticated, airy main room with nods to the chef's upbringing (storks and lighting symbolizing Alsace and hospitality, wooden beams reminiscent of Y-frame homes). The place beckons with a gastronomic experience that reinvents Manhattan fine dining. Every detail has been considered, from the comfortable cream-colored banquettes to the unusual (and fun) choices in silverware, glassware and plates.

• Gabriel Kreuther is part of GAYOT's 2022 Restaurant Awards.

About the food: A bevy of knowledgeable servers and sommeliers guide you through the menu, which is as creative as the room. Each dish is meticulously designed to wow and surprise, with intriguing preparations like hamachi, black truffle and foie gras mille-feuille with celery, grapes and truffle vinaigrette. An Alsatian-influenced sturgeon and sauerkraut tart is pure theater, as a glass cloche is lifted to suffuse the pastry with applewood smoke. Aged Long Island duck breast is smoked in hay, accompanied by seasonal accompaniments like cranberry glaze and crispy yucca. Equally rich in detail and composition, desserts rotate with evocative names like Decadent (mixed media crumble, chocolate mousse and caramel ice cream) and Harvest (fig carpaccio, nutmeg tuile and olive oil ice cream). At dinner, choose from a three-course prix-fixe ($155), four-course prix-fixe ($185) or chef's tasting menu ($255, plus $255 for optional wine pairings). Lunch brings à la carte offerings or a three-course prix-fixe for $115. An immersive Kitchen Table Experience is also available.

About the wine: Under the direction of head sommelier Philippe Sauriat, the 1,800-plus-bottle wine list focuses on France but also crosses the globe many times.