
Nice, France 72-Hour Vacation
Nice
is Nice
Gem
of the French Riviera
By Danielle Colletti |
|

The
Côte d'Azur was "discovered" at the
end of the nineteenth century as an illustrious, warm
winter wonderland for the privileged classes of Great
Britain, Switzerland and Russia. The climate of Nice
was praised for its therapeutic benefits, which drew
foreigners searching for the dry, warm weather necessary
to cure their ailments. Enchanted by this undiscovered
paradise, the same families returned year after year
until an affluent community of royalty, courtesans and
artists flourished in the prosperous atmosphere of Belle
Epoque Nice.
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Ratatouille |
Today,
Nice is a fabulous fusion of French and Italian culture,
customs and cooking. Even the language, le Niçois
or Nissart, spoken almost exclusively
by the local population up until the beginning of the
20th century, is a hybrid of Italian—the official
language of Nice from the sixteenth century until 1860—and
French. This amalgam of cultures is also responsible
for the wonderfully robust and flavorful Niçois
cooking, based largely on olive oil, tomatoes, garlic,
basil and other local produce.
During
the summer months, millions of tourists flock to Nice's
sun-baked shores, so be sure to book lodgings well in
advance. Among the many hotel options, it's impossible
to miss the Hôtel Negresco with
its landmark pink dome, at 37, Promenade des Anglais.
This splendid palace, built in 1912, is also home to
the renowned restaurant Chantecler.
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Palais
de la Mediterranée |
Also
on the Promenade des Anglais, Palais
de la Mediterranée is an architectural wonder
with its contemporary Art Deco décor, elevated
swimming pool and sophisticated spa—the latter
both offer an unobstructed view of the sea. Close to
Old Nice, the Château and the port, La
Pérouse is a waterfront hotel that enjoys
a breathtaking view of the Baie des Anges, a pool, rooftop
bar and country-style décor. Close to the chic
pedestrian shopping area is the Boscolo Group’s
Hôtel Plaza, while its sister
hotel next door, the Park, enjoys the
same ideal location and sea view while offering spacious
terraces. Boscolo’s third hotel, the Hotel
Windsor, is situated in the center of town,
minutes from the Promenade des Anglais and the pedestrian
area. This handsome stone hotel boasts a lush garden
and small pool. Original, comfortable rooms are artfully
decorated; most of those facing the garden have balconies.
There is also a pleasant, intimate bar. Also centrally
located is The Busby Hotel where a
friendly, familial atmosphere reigns. The beautiful
Belle Epoque breakfast room is particularly pleasant.
Former
residence of filmmaker Sacha Guitry, the Hotel
du Petit Palais is a hidden jewel high on the
hill of Cimiez, Nice’s chic residential neighborhood.
The Hi Hotel, designed by a former
collaborator of Philippe Starck, offers unique technological
twists, such as a sofa with a built-in sound system
and virtual "walls" that materialize with
the help of a projector. The Happy Bar
moves to the beat of its own soundtrack and features
visiting DJs. An organic restaurant offers healthful
Provençal specialties. A hammam and small rooftop
pool add to the sense of well-being.
DAY
1
Start
your day early in Vieux Nice (Old Nice),
with a café crème in the Cours
Saleya, a prime spot from
which to observe the vibrant Marché
aux Fleurs (flower market). In addition to
a colorful assortment of regional flora, this market
specializes in locally grown fruits and vegetables and
regional products such as honey, lavender, preserves
and—of course—olive oil. Don't miss the
vast assortment of exquisitely confected marzipan figures
and rich candied fruit, which make for excellent, inexpensive
souvenirs. If you prefer a more structured overview
of Old Nice, make your way to the Palais Lascari,
a magnificent Baroque palace that is now a museum and
the meeting point for several guided tours throughout
Nice. For specific information, contact the palace directly.
Before
leaving the Cours Saleya, pay a visit to Thérèse,
the legendary socca merchant of Old Nice. Sample
a piece of giant crèpe made from chickpea flour
and olive oil, or opt for a slice of pissaladière,
a savory onion tart garnished with delectable Niçois
olives and drizzled with olive oil. After indulging
in some of Nice's most cherished delicacies, climb the
sweeping stone stairs to the Château de
Nice where you will be rewarded with another
delicious treat, a breathtaking view of the
Baie des Anges. For those that prefer to save
their breath during their visit to this ancient site,
use the lift at the foot of the cliff.
The
Château de Nice, dismantled by Louis XIV in 1706,
is now a shady, peaceful park affording several ideal
vantage points on the sprawling coastline. If you have
the time and aren't quite ready to descend back into
the busy city below, consider meandering in the adjacent
Cimitière du Château,
a Jewish cemetery that is one of the most beautiful
resting grounds in the world.
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Auer's
chocolate-covered almonds |
For
lunch, you can either stroll along the port and choose
among several fine seafood restaurants or venture back
into the narrow streets of Old Nice for more indigenous
cooking. If you can't get enough of the Cours Saleya,
Safari boasts a long list of local
dishes such as daube (meat-filled ravioli),
beignets of zucchini flowers and farcis
(stuffed vegetables). For a lighter version of regional
dishes in a refined setting, reserve at the Petite
Maison on rue St. François de Paule—steps
from City Hall, the Opera House and Alziari,
an indispensable source for fragrant olive oil, jars
of tapenade and big green bars of olive oil soap. Cross
the street and sample the addictive chocolate-covered
almonds at Auer, an old fashioned confectionary
dating back to 1820. Or perhaps you prefer a sumptuous
gelato to accompany you on your mid-afternoon journey
through the winding web of streets in Old Nice.
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Cathedral
of Ste. Reparate |
Baroque
treasures are next on your agenda. Begin at the Prefecture
and take rue Ste. Reparate to the Place Rosetti where
Finocchio, an enticing gelateria, offers
sinful Italian ice cream. If you're feeling guilty after
your sweet indulgence, confess next door at the Cathedral
of Ste. Reparate. Named after the patron saint
of Nice, this impressive church is an excellent example
of the Baroque architecture that flourished in Nice
during the seventeenth century. Explore further into
the picturesque vieux ville or turn around
and take rue Reparate back to rue Droite, where another
Baroque treasure is nestled peacefully in the quiet
place du Gesu. The petit Eglise du Gesu,
one of the oldest parishes in Nice, was inspired by
a Roman church but built in 1642 by a Niçois
architect. The restricted interior is resplendent with
cherubs, flower garlands and gilded stuccos. If you'd
like to contemplate the handsome exterior while enjoying
a rustic pizza or plate of fresh pasta, reserve for
dinner at the charming Restaurant du Gesu,
a simple-yet-authentic Niçois restaurant discreetly
tucked away from the hordes of summertime tourists.
Ristorante La Voglia is a popular Italian
spot in Old Nice that draws locals and tourists for
huge portions of high-quality cooking at moderate prices.
If
you prefer to venture out of Old Nice for dinner and
if lunch plans didn't include a visit to the
port, don't exclude this destination, which
makes for a particularly pleasant evening program. After
admiring the array of yachts in the marina, relax at
the upscale L'Ane Rouge, a sophisticated
seafood restaurant serving modern interpretations of
classical regional dishes. Continue
to Day 2
(Updated:
04/13/06) |