
Nice, France
Nice
is Nice
Gem
of the French Riviera
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DAY
2
Weather
permitting, there is nothing more pleasurable than spending
the morning—or afternoon—at one of the city's
many private beaches, where you can
conveniently rent a comfortable, cushioned chaise lounge,
fresh towels and a large umbrella. Lunch on salad Niçoise
and a bottle of Rosé
without ever leaving your spot in the sun thanks to
the small army of friendly, tanned servers. In order
to ensure that your refreshing swim in the sparkling
Mediterranean brings you bliss and not blisters, be
sure to protect your feet from the hot, irregularly
shaped stones that cover the shores of the Baie des
Anges. You can purchase inexpensive flip flops or jelly
sandals in most souvenir shops. Another advantage of
choosing a private beach over a public one is the availability
of clean, spacious changing and showering facilities,
which, depending on where you stay, eradicate a time-consuming
return trip to your hotel in order to freshen up before
you continue touring the city.
While
Old Nice charms with its Italian architecture and atmosphere,
"new" Nice is no less endearing thanks to
the profusion of Belle Epoque façades
that embellish the commercial and residential neighborhoods
of the city, from the Promenade des Anglais to the tranquil
hill of Cimiez. For a more thorough visit of Nice's
architectural treasures, contact the City Hall of Nice,
where you can choose from several 90-minute guided tours
of the city.
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Promenade
des Anglais |
Spend
your second mid-afternoon discovering Le Carré
d'Or, the elegant section of the pedestrian
zone of central Nice, which begins at the Promenade
des Anglais and extends to the tree-lined Boulevard
Victor Hugo. Look for street names like Paradis, Alfonse
Karr or Longchamp in order to identify this chic quarter
of Nice. A structured walk should begin at the majestic
Place Massena, the veritable center of Nice—easily
recognizable by its series of fountains and large, red,
arcaded buildings. Walk along the spacious and verdant
Jardin Albert 1er, one of the oldest
gardens in Nice, which links the old and new cities
while occupying a coveted central location with an unobstructed,
sublime view of the sea. The garden is also parallel
to the pedestrian zone where you can peruse through
small boutiques, enjoy an aperitif or dine in one of
many outdoor restaurants. The Taverne Massena,
for example, serves a particularly good pizza in a casual,
convivial setting.
For
a more urban experience, walk down the crowded and commercial
Avenue Jean Mèdecin. Beside
major department stores like Galeries Lafayette, Virgin
Megastore and a multi-level shopping mall, you will
spot the Basilica of Notre Dame, the
largest church in Nice and the oldest example of modern
religious architecture in the city center. Note the
late nineteenth-century series of stained glass windows.
The out-of-the-way Eglise Russe (Russian
church) is worth the detour for those interested in
the city’s host of holy monuments. This ornate
landmark, inspired by St. Basil's cathedral in Red Square,
was built between 1902 and 1913 and financed by Czar
Nicolas II. The Eglise Russe is a prominent reminder
of the importance of Russian royalty in Nice during
the second half of the nineteenth century. The royal
family's winter holidays spent on the Côte d'Azur
motivated the city of Nice to improve infrastructure
for the comfort of such prestigious "tourists."
Again, contact the City Hall of Nice for information
about organized visits of the city's religious architecture.
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Bouillabaisse,
a Niçoise favorite |
After
spending a day in the vibrant city center, have dinner
in a serene, secluded location. For unbeatable bouillabaisse
in an attractive, wood-panelled dining room designed
to look like a boat, reserve at Coco Beach.
Call in the morning to place your order so the chef
can purchase your fish at the market. A spectacular
setting above the sea makes Coco Beach worth the short
trip, but only if you have a car or don't mind the expensive
taxi fare. For a more rustic, authentically Niçois
experience, don't miss dinner at Chez Hélène
Barale, where a colorful parade of local dishes
can be had, including wine, for a reasonable fixed price.
It's also a slightly out-of-the-way location but worth
the effort. Continue
to Day 3
(Updated:
04/13/06)
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