| Big
Fun in Barcelona
Spain's City of Modernism, Architecture and Food
DAY
1:
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Park
Güell
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Start
your first day at the Plaça de Catalunya.
Drop into the Tourist Information office, possibly
pick up any forgotten items at the gigantic El Corte
Inglés department store (a ninth floor terrace
offers a great view of the city), and orient yourself.
With the department store on your left, old Barcelona-Ramblas,
Bari Gòtic, and the port of Barcelona-lie in
front of you. New Barcelona—built in a modern
grid pattern when Barcelona absorbed the outlying
towns in the 1800s—expands behind you to the
mountains, which contain Antoni Gaudí's Park
Güell.
A
walk along the Ramblas from the Plaça de Catalunya
to the Columbus Monument takes about 20 minutes without
stops. Begin by walking to the top of the Ramblas
and checking out the interesting mix of tourists and
locals resting on benches, sitting at small tables,
talking amongst the chairs. Years ago these seats
were so coveted that they used to be rented for either
the morning or the afternoon. These days, the seats
are free, but the people-watching is just as good.
To
your right is the Canaletes Fountain, site
of the legend that if you drink from the fountain,
you will become an honorary citizen of Barcelona destined
to return again and again. As you walk down the Ramblas,
which used to be a small stream along the wall of
the medieval city, you will notice a number of interesting
stands with international newspapers, turtles, all
kinds of birds, and fish, as well as flowers. A number
of street performers gather crowds. Beware that pick
pockets love to prey on entranced tourists. A bit
further down on your right is the Academy of Science.
The clock on the outside of the building is the official
time of Barcelona. Just down the block, take note
of the Baroque Church, one of the few Baroque structures
left in the city of modernist architecture.
The
next block boasts the entrance to La Boqueria Market.
The city's covered, outdoor market where the locals
do their daily shopping is a slew of tiny stands selling
sausages, cured meats, more varieties of raw meat
than we normally see in the United States, fresh fruits
and vegetables, breads, and cheeses. Pick up a coffee
here or at the Pasteleria Escriba at the corner.
The entrance to this 100-year-old pastry shop is an
example of the beautiful mosaics of the Belle Epoque
period. Inside the pastries are good but the chocolates
are outstanding. Across the Ramblas, a cigar shop
sells Cuban cigars. A few steps farther along, the
midpoint of the Ramblas is marked by the mosaic anchor
embedded in the pavement that was designed by Joan
Miró.
A
few blocks further down, make a right onto Nou Rambla.
Here Palau Güell stands dark and heavy
in its architecture. Inside is your first look at
an interior by Antoni Gaudí, Barcelona's most
famous architect. When the building was proposed in
1886 no budget was set. Subsequently, Gaudí
spared no expense on the stone, metal and wood he
used as materials for the sweeping, otherworldly designs.
Be sure to check out the rooftop complete with Gaudí's
signature tiled chimneys.
Across
the Ramblas is the neoclassically designed Plaça
Reial. Patio tables spill out from the taverns
and restaurants in the palm tree-lined square. Street
musicians and suspicious characters mingle amongst
the revelers. Take note of the two colorful lampposts.
These were Gaudí's first public commission
for the city of Barcelona. Head back to the Ramblas
for the final blocks to the harbor and the Columbus
Monument. The small streets that lead to the water
from the Plaça Reial are the least safe in
the neighborhood. The Columbus Monument, built
in 1888, marks the spot where Queen Isabelle and King
Ferdinand welcomed Columbus back from his first trip
to America. Take the elevator to the top for a fine
view.
Head
back up the Ramblas taking in sites and shops that you
missed on the way down. Els Quatre Gats would
be a nice place to eat lunch and take in some Barcelona
history. It was here in the beginning of the 1900s that
artists and bohemians met to eat, drink, and socialize.
A young Pablo Picasso showed his art here and designed
the restaurants first menu. Classic Spanish bistro-style
food can be had from potato and onion tortilla to grilled
meats to tinto de verano-a typical warm weather beverage
of red wine and soda over ice. The room has been splendidly
cared for, retaining much of the original décor
and atmosphere that the young artists reveled within.
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The
Cathedral
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After
a leisurely lunch explore the Bari Gòtic
neighborhood. The warren of narrow, twisting streets
is a perfect place to get lost. Fortunately the neighborhood
is small and it is impossible to stay lost for too long,
so enjoy the freedom. Dip down small alleys and come
upon quiet squares enclosed by towering stone buildings.
The highlight of the Bari Gòtic is the Gothic
Cathedral began being built in about 1300 and wasn't
completed until the 1900s. This building is the symbol
of Roman rule in Barcelona, in fact Barcino, Barcelona's
Roman name, is spelled out in inlayed letters in front
of the cathedral. Climb the narrow, spiraled staircase
to the top and take in a bird's eye view of the city.
At
the Plaça de Sant Juame in the center
of the Bari Gòtic two top government
buildings
face each other: Barcelona's city hall and the seat
of the autonomous government of Catalunya. Locals gather
almost daily at 6 p.m. to participate in the Sardana
dance. The group forms a circle placing their personal
belongings in a pile in the middle of the group and
begins to sway with their arms above their heads to
the music of a band playing uniquely Catalonian instruments.
The dance is a symbol of patriotism and community for
the citizens of Catalunya.
For
dinner drop back down towards the harbor of Barcelona,
near the Columbus Monument, to the border between the
Bari Gòtic neighborhood and the El Born neighborhoods.
Estrella de Plata, a wonderful tapas restaurant,
caters to locals but welcomes tourists with a smile
and a few helpful hints. The room's central element
is a long, dark-wood bar—the best seats in the
house for a leisurely evening of traditional, yet contemporary,
tapas. Servers hustle about behind the bar, pouring
cava and sherry, and plating up the different tapas,
which are on display under glass along the length of
the bar (much like a sushi bar). Ask for specials and
recommendations. Start with fresh anchovies atop freshly
grilled crostini paired with olive tapenade, tomato
confit and fruity olive oil. Next try the slow roasted
chicken legs in a sweet, almost Asian-style sauce, coated
in toasted sesame seeds. A showstopper is the artichoke
heart stuffed with caviar and topped with a bright orange
quail egg.
After
dinner wander up through the lively El Born neighborhood
to Palau Dalmases located across from the Picasso
Museum. The bar is the inside of a former palace from
the 15th century. The address is an old wood door in
a stone wall. Just push, or knock. An older gentleman
should be sitting just inside the door. Let him know
you are coming to the bar and he will direct you across
the square to the entrance to the bar.
Park
Güell image courtesy of Jonathan D. Meltzer
of Gaudí
Central
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