Acacia Mid-Town

Acacia Mid-Town Restaurant Review:

Nearer downtown than its Carytown birthplace, the restaurant’s current space, industrial-chic with a techno vibe softened by whimsical glass bubble dividers and grass sprouting from banquette backs, is only slightly bigger but feels more spacious, with a striking wine room and open kitchen. But what really matters is that after more than a decade, Acacia’s food is as appealing as ever. Chef-owner Dale Reitzer continues his crusade of seasonal and regional with an oft-changing menu, showcasing what’s freshest and best. Corn and clam chowder with chili oil is a simple, inspiring start. Whether it’s a light dish, perhaps sautéed golden tilefish in orange basil sauce, or an intense braised local pork with hand-cut pasta, truffle cream, haricots verts, cipollini and braising jus, or even a sweet ending such as apple and goat cheese clafoutis with honey ice cream and apple cider sauce, Reitzer applies the ideal touch to make it transcend the sum of its parts while illuminating each component. The three-course prix-fixe option represents value, and occasional “To Go” dinners are good when hankering for Acacia’s cuisine but not craving the restaurant scene.